Creation of a Figurine (by Chris Tubb)
MMP › Mithril in Middle-Earth › The Mathom House of Michel Delving › Creation of a Figurine (by Chris Tubb)
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August 8, 2010 at 7:31 pm #514
(I recently received a full description of a figurine making, along with the fact it is exclusive… Chris proposed to submit it to this forum as it could be very interesting! so here it is! I may make a gallery lately but for the time being it will be there)
Ms559 Dunlending musician – design phases
1. The first stage is to rough out the figure in Plastecene, expressing the basic pose. I make an armature of stripped telephone wire in the shape of an inverted “Y” . I animate this into the basic position that I want, in this case of a figure reaching up with his left arm, to hold the carnyx. Once the position is established I build up a base below the figure , again in Plastecene; This gives me something to hold while I am working, and gives some stability to the feet positions. Next plastecene (Peach colour is my favorite to work with) is applied to the armature, and the elements of the figure are blocked out.
[imgz url=http://mmp.faerylands.eu/uploads/2_1.jpg]http://mmp.faerylands.eu/uploads/thumbs/2_1.jpg[/imgz]2. The tools that I use are a DAS pronto modelling spatula , a small wax modelling tool and a swann-Morton scalpel
[imgz url=http://mmp.faerylands.eu/uploads/2_2.jpg]http://mmp.faerylands.eu/uploads/thumbs/2_2.jpg[/imgz]3 Once the pose and bulk of the figure are created, I start to add the costume details and the face. The trousers with the key folds are modelled as is the leather breastplate and the helmet shape. I also add temporary arms at this stage without any wire in them, just to ensure that the balance of the figure looks corrrect.
[imgz url=http://mmp.faerylands.eu/uploads/2_3.jpg]http://mmp.faerylands.eu/uploads/thumbs/2_3.jpg[/imgz]4. The next stage is to add more wire for the arms. For this I use a piece long enough to bend around and bury into the base. This gives stability to an otherwise very fragile join, which , if it not anchored in some way would move around as you try to work on it and make detailing impossible. I block out the basic arm shapes at this stage. You will note that only
the basic shapes and the bigger folds are put in at the Plastecene stage: the finer details are left till later.
[imgz url=http://mmp.faerylands.eu/uploads/2_4.jpg]http://mmp.faerylands.eu/uploads/thumbs/2_4.jpg[/imgz]5. Once the basic figure is finished to my satisfaction, I make a simple silicone rubber mould from the original and once set, cut open the mould with a scalpel. The original figure is destroyed at this stage so you have to ensure that the mould is cut open correrctly!
[imgz url=http://mmp.faerylands.eu/uploads/2_5.jpg]http://mmp.faerylands.eu/uploads/thumbs/2_5.jpg[/imgz]6. I cram each half of the mould with my preferred Epoxy putty which is Magicsculp. This is a fine putty which is easily worked and has a surface that can be smoothed to a high degree. Also when dry it can be filed without leaving the “pitting”
that Milliput sometimes does. When the mould halves have been crammed I place them together (usually held fast with a couple of elastic bands) and put them on a radiator for an hour or so.
This will give a you an exact copy of the Plastecene figure in hard epoxy clay.At this stage I also make the carnyx which the Dunlending figure will be holding, from the same Magicsculp material, again on a length of telephone wire
[imgz url=http://mmp.faerylands.eu/uploads/2_6.jpg]http://mmp.faerylands.eu/uploads/thumbs/2_6.jpg[/imgz]7. Once the epoxy figure has been cleaned up I begin to add the final details such as, in this case, the belt, the detail on the leather breastplate, helmet etc. For this detailing I use a different combination of Epoxy putty ( 2 part milliput
to one part ribbon epoxy).The ribbon epoxy allows fine detailing while the addition of Milliput to the mix adds more flexability and flow to the material and also enables the hardened surface to be filed.
[imgz url=http://mmp.faerylands.eu/uploads/2_7.jpg]http://mmp.faerylands.eu/uploads/thumbs/2_7.jpg[/imgz]8.The final stage shows the addition of hair, weapons and finally the base. The weapons, like the Carnyx in this case, are made separately from Magicsculp, and added to the figure when dry.The fingers are modelled around the weapon and Carnyx after they have been glued into place
[imgz url=http://mmp.faerylands.eu/uploads/2_8.jpg]http://mmp.faerylands.eu/uploads/thumbs/2_8.jpg[/imgz]August 8, 2010 at 7:31 pm #11260(I recently received a full description of a figurine making, along with the fact it is exclusive… Chris proposed to submit it to this forum as it could be very interesting! so here it is! I may make a gallery lately but for the time being it will be there)
Ms559 Dunlending musician – design phases
1. The first stage is to rough out the figure in Plastecene, expressing the basic pose. I make an armature of stripped telephone wire in the shape of an inverted “Y” . I animate this into the basic position that I want, in this case of a figure reaching up with his left arm, to hold the carnyx. Once the position is established I build up a base below the figure , again in Plastecene; This gives me something to hold while I am working, and gives some stability to the feet positions. Next plastecene (Peach colour is my favorite to work with) is applied to the armature, and the elements of the figure are blocked out.
[imgz url=http://mmp.faerylands.eu/uploads/2_1.jpg]http://mmp.faerylands.eu/uploads/thumbs/2_1.jpg[/imgz]2. The tools that I use are a DAS pronto modelling spatula , a small wax modelling tool and a swann-Morton scalpel
[imgz url=http://mmp.faerylands.eu/uploads/2_2.jpg]http://mmp.faerylands.eu/uploads/thumbs/2_2.jpg[/imgz]3 Once the pose and bulk of the figure are created, I start to add the costume details and the face. The trousers with the key folds are modelled as is the leather breastplate and the helmet shape. I also add temporary arms at this stage without any wire in them, just to ensure that the balance of the figure looks corrrect.
[imgz url=http://mmp.faerylands.eu/uploads/2_3.jpg]http://mmp.faerylands.eu/uploads/thumbs/2_3.jpg[/imgz]4. The next stage is to add more wire for the arms. For this I use a piece long enough to bend around and bury into the base. This gives stability to an otherwise very fragile join, which , if it not anchored in some way would move around as you try to work on it and make detailing impossible. I block out the basic arm shapes at this stage. You will note that only
the basic shapes and the bigger folds are put in at the Plastecene stage: the finer details are left till later.
[imgz url=http://mmp.faerylands.eu/uploads/2_4.jpg]http://mmp.faerylands.eu/uploads/thumbs/2_4.jpg[/imgz]5. Once the basic figure is finished to my satisfaction, I make a simple silicone rubber mould from the original and once set, cut open the mould with a scalpel. The original figure is destroyed at this stage so you have to ensure that the mould is cut open correrctly!
[imgz url=http://mmp.faerylands.eu/uploads/2_5.jpg]http://mmp.faerylands.eu/uploads/thumbs/2_5.jpg[/imgz]6. I cram each half of the mould with my preferred Epoxy putty which is Magicsculp. This is a fine putty which is easily worked and has a surface that can be smoothed to a high degree. Also when dry it can be filed without leaving the “pitting”
that Milliput sometimes does. When the mould halves have been crammed I place them together (usually held fast with a couple of elastic bands) and put them on a radiator for an hour or so.
This will give a you an exact copy of the Plastecene figure in hard epoxy clay.At this stage I also make the carnyx which the Dunlending figure will be holding, from the same Magicsculp material, again on a length of telephone wire
[imgz url=http://mmp.faerylands.eu/uploads/2_6.jpg]http://mmp.faerylands.eu/uploads/thumbs/2_6.jpg[/imgz]7. Once the epoxy figure has been cleaned up I begin to add the final details such as, in this case, the belt, the detail on the leather breastplate, helmet etc. For this detailing I use a different combination of Epoxy putty ( 2 part milliput
to one part ribbon epoxy).The ribbon epoxy allows fine detailing while the addition of Milliput to the mix adds more flexability and flow to the material and also enables the hardened surface to be filed.
[imgz url=http://mmp.faerylands.eu/uploads/2_7.jpg]http://mmp.faerylands.eu/uploads/thumbs/2_7.jpg[/imgz]8.The final stage shows the addition of hair, weapons and finally the base. The weapons, like the Carnyx in this case, are made separately from Magicsculp, and added to the figure when dry.The fingers are modelled around the weapon and Carnyx after they have been glued into place
[imgz url=http://mmp.faerylands.eu/uploads/2_8.jpg]http://mmp.faerylands.eu/uploads/thumbs/2_8.jpg[/imgz]August 8, 2010 at 8:07 pm #11264Magnificent ! …..
😆 
I hope that we would seen others figures in production in those working phases !
August 8, 2010 at 8:25 pm #11266Absolutely fascinating – thank you Chris for sharing this, and Gildor for posting. Although I can’t, I have always wished I could sculpt, but can never get the hands to do what the brain tells them
. I did have a crack at some larger size stuff with mixed success.MagicSculpt is my medium of choice as well as super sculpey which is a flesh coloured oven bake synthetic [clay].
August 8, 2010 at 9:29 pm #11267Y E S ! I T W A S W O R T H W A I T I N G F O R T H I S !
U N B E L I E V A B L E ! S P E A K L E S S !
A V I E W I N T O T H E A R T D E P A R T M E N T O F T H E M A N !
T H E R E I S N O T H I N G M O R E !
T H A N K Y O U M R . T U B B F O R F A C I L I T A T I N G T H I S !August 8, 2010 at 9:45 pm #11268and thank you rita.de for suggesting that to the man
August 8, 2010 at 10:39 pm #11269And thank you Gildor, for referencing this! I am very honoured indeed, that The Man has followed my suggestion! Very honoured indeed.
August 9, 2010 at 6:29 am #11273My fingers are all thumbs when I try to do conversions to existing figures, let alone produce an entire miniature from scratch. It’s a skill I dearly wish I had. I’ve seen the work of the Perrys from dolly to cast figure too, but I’m more than pleased to see how The Man does it. I actually handled one of the Perrys figures during the early stages, and you wouldn’t believe how sticky and fragile they are during the early stages. It amazes me that any figure designer can handle them so deftly and yet still produce such crisp detail – and without impressions of their fingerprints everywhere!
August 9, 2010 at 7:50 am #11276Very interesting reading — and a nice miniature, indeed …
August 9, 2010 at 9:13 am #11282well barliman, I suppose that’s what the big base is for , not touching the figurine at all, only grasping the base and nothing else
August 9, 2010 at 9:18 am #11283Actually, that base is one of the differences between The Man’s method and the Perrys, who I think (from memory) only have a sort of protruding stump. Even with a base, it’s still not easy to handle the figures without touching them at some point. Believe me – I’ve tried!
August 9, 2010 at 12:32 pm #11285Could have had a look there….
http://www.mithril.ie/Intro/DesignFigure.htmlBut is it nice to see some more!
August 9, 2010 at 12:38 pm #11286Master Barliman is very right.
That stuff sticks like shit. Thats why I’m carving lol -
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MMP › Mithril in Middle-Earth › The Mathom House of Michel Delving › Creation of a Figurine (by Chris Tubb)
